Dubrovnik continued

"The Jewel of the Adriatic" as I believe George Bernard Shaw either said or stole. The city really is amazing. White stone and similar colored tile roofs...into the really blue and clear Adriatic, it is indeed enchanting.

We tried to visit the convent of St Clare, patron saint of television...but it's no longer there, replaced by a shop and restaurant. Hmmm, perhaps a victim of the bombing of the city 15 years ago...I don't know. Alas.

We wandered the streets of old town some more under the watchful gaze of St Blaise (or Sveti Vlaho, patron saint of the city). So many little quant shops and such. A bit of history of Dubrovnik...The city was completed in the 13th century and remains true to its history, you feel like you're in a protective bubble here. No vehicle noises. Dubrovnik had an independent merchant republic for 700 years before Napoleon abolished it (1806). They traded with Turkey & India, had reps in Africa and diplomatic relations throughout Europe (including the English court in the middle ages, a letter is on file at the city museum sent by Elizabeth I).

Then the Serbian Orthodox church which dates from 1877 and contains icons dating from the 15th to 19th centuries. We chatted with the Serb from Bosnia in the church (he's from a town with a really old bridge, and when I said I'm from "Minneapolis" he said "where the bridge fell"). He did think Minneapolis was the state though. :) Ralph asked if he'd ever been to the US and he said no, he'd tried a few times but can't get a visa unless he finds himself a woman. Then he asked Patti if she was single and she introduced him to me. Ha. So I've had a proposal of sorts. ;)

From here we went to the synagogue, the oldest Sephardic and 2nd oldest synagogue in Europe. It also holds a museum with Tora (sp?) and other holy relics (from as early as the 16th century). There are the list of holocaust victims from 1945 as well as orders, proclomations, armband identifiers...but also persecutions dating to the 1500's and 1600's. They also have orders proclaiming an end to Jewish persecution dating 1803. Heartbreaking.

On to the Rector's Palace where we saw portraits dating to the middle ages, coins to the 600's etc. Carriages (hand carried, ornate, gorgeous), dungeons, courts, weapons, incredible 15th, 16th, 17th and 18th century artifacts and furnature. They also had teh city gate keys that used to be locked up at night and given to the prince (there are only 2 gates to the city through the walls. Pile Gate dates to 1537 and the inner gate to 1460. As you enter you see a fountain that was completed in 1438 (heavily damaged in an earthquake in 1667). St Savior Church dates to 1520 and is one of the few buildings to survive the quake. At the end of the Placa Stradun is Orlando Column used for edicts & proclaimations to be read in the early days...now starts many of the city tours.

We went to a movie (Michael Clayton) in the Clock Tower (built in 1444) and restored many times. It rings out the hours still.

68% of the city was damaged in the shelling of 91/92. The repairs are mostly complete but a few roffless houses remain in progress of rebuilding. The walls too were damaged but are fully repaired. They're also fortifying for any future earthquakes (a mild one last hit in 1995). Richard the Lionheart gifted teh city after being rescued from a shipwreck on the nearby island of Lokrum.

Lunch was pizza at Mea Culpa where one of the MANY stray animals suckered me into sharing (a grey kitty). It got some ham then several pieces of the softer tomato sauce soaked crust. He even would jump on the table if I wasn't quick enough with the offering. They're tolerated everywhere. Some though break your heart with little matted fur, watery eyes or burrs in their fur. But none look like they're starving!

Off to a visit to War Photo Limited. A gallery of war photos. On exhibit, Lebonan/Israel 2006 (both perspectives). Iraq, Afghanistan and the Serbian/Croatian/Kosovo 90's photos. Less of the gore and more of the emotional impact of war. Croat people from Vukovar being led out of their city with suitcases of belongings, under Bosnian rifles when the city fell. One that really disturbed me was a Serb soldier in a street with a cigarette in one hand, a rifle pointed at 3 women face down on the street with his foot drawn back just about to kick one of them in the head. Awful. Children (African conflict) carrying rifles who couldn't be more than 5. Another thing that impacted me was the first floor shots of the impact of bombing in Lebanon, children dead, a father collapsing after identifying his son...and you go upstairs and see the Israelie perspective, their dead...and a group of children putting messages on the bombs you've just seen the destruction they've caused. It's impossible not to be moved.

Back up the 114 steps to our house, and 14 to my room, for some reflection. Ivona Michl was wonderful to us (owner of House Anica) as was Milly our driver. Dan at the Sesame restaurant..."why" whenever you ordered something when he had a better offer, or if Ralph ordered a Coke Zero to Patti and my wine "no...what else" Cracked me up. A correction from the earlier blog. Java is NOT Evian! It's actually Croatian spring water from St Jana's hills (Prirodna Izvorska Voda).

A great Croatian wine: Mendek Mozalk 2003 Barrique (if I'm reading "Dan's" handwriting correctly). We'll have to get some more. :)

Turned on the TV, 3 channels...last night it was a Croatian "Weakest Link", Married with Children with Croatian subtitles and a British farm show with Croatian subtitles...this morning all Croatian programs (children).

Okay off to the stairs for the last time...phew...my knees would give out in this city! And it's humiliating to realize just how out of shape you are when as you take a break half way up huffing and puffing...and a 70 year old man comes out of his home and teases you...HA.

More from Trogir likely in 2 or 3 days.